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How-To: grills

The Central Coast Classic: How to Use a Santa Maria Grill

By Big B •

The West Coast’s BBQ Legacy

While the South focuses on the enclosed smoke of the offset or the pellet grill, California has its own ancient tradition: the Santa Maria Grill. This is open-pit BBQ at its finest. Tracing its roots back to the 19th-century rancheros, this method relies on direct heat, a specific wood, and a unique mechanical design that gives the pitmaster ultimate control over the fire.

Santa Maria Grill

1. Anatomy of the “Wheel” Grill

The defining feature of a Santa Maria grill is the Adjustable Grate.

  • The Wheel: A large hand-cranked wheel on the side of the grill.
  • The Cables: Steel cables that wind around an axle, raising or lowering the heavy iron grate. This allows for micromanagement of the temperature by adjusting the distance between the meat and the coals.
  • The Firebox: A deep, open rectangular box where the wood is burned down into a bed of glowing coals. It usually lacks a lid, emphasizing the importance of radiant heat rather than convection.

2. The Fuel: Red Oak or Nothing

In Santa Maria, the wood is not optional. You must use Red Oak (Quercus agrifolia). Unlike Hickory or Mesquite, Red Oak provides a mild, clean smoke flavor that doesn’t overpower the beef. It also burns very hot and stays as a stable coal bed for a long time, which is essential for this style of cooking.

Fire Management

  1. The Stack: Build a “log cabin” stack of Red Oak logs in the center of the firebox.
  2. The Burn Down: Let it burn down completely until you have a level bed of glowing, white-hot coals. This usually takes 45-60 minutes.
  3. The Coal Bed: Spread the coals out evenly using a fireplace poker. You want a depth of about 2-3 inches of glowing embers.
  4. No Flames: Avoid cooking over active, licking flames. Flames singe the meat and create a sootier flavor; the radiant heat of the white-hot coals is where the culinary magic happens.

3. Heat Control: The Vertical Strategy

This is where the magic happens. On a standard grill, you control heat by opening vents or adjusting gas dials. On a Santa Maria grill, you move the meat.

  • The Sear (Bottom Position): Lower the grate until it is just 2-3 inches above the coals. Place your seasoned Tri-Tip down for a hard, fast sear—usually 4-5 minutes per side until a deep crust forms.
  • The Roast (High Position): Once seared, crank the wheel to raise the grate 10-12 inches above the coals. This allows the meat to roast gently, absorbing the mild oak smoke without burning the exterior.
  • The “Flare-Up” Crank: If fat drippings cause a sudden flare-up, don’t reach for a water spray. Simply crank the wheel a few times to raise the meat out of the danger zone until the flames die down.

4. The Iconic Santa Maria Tri-Tip

The Tri-Tip is the traditional cut for this grill. It is a triangular muscle from the bottom sirloin, famous for its rich marbling and distinct grain.

The Authentic Rub

The “Santa Maria Rub” is simple, allowing the flavor of the beef and the oak to shine:

  • 1 part Salt
  • 1 part Coarse Black Pepper
  • 1 part Garlic Salt

The Slicing Secret

Tri-Tip is notorious for having a grain that changes direction mid-muscle. To ensure a tender bite, you must identify the grain before cooking and slice against the grain for the final service.

Sliced Santa Maria Tri-Tip

5. The Full Feast: Traditional Sides

A Santa Maria BBQ is never just about the meat. It is a specific, culturally protected meal that traditionally includes:

  • Pinquito Beans: Small, pink, nutty beans grown in the Santa Maria valley, slow-cooked with bacon and spices.
  • Fresh Salsa: A chunky, “pico de gallo” style salsa that provides acidity to cut through the beef fat.
  • Grilled Garlic Bread: Slices of sourdough or French bread slathered in garlic butter and toasted directly on the iron grate.

6. Maintenance: Respect the Iron

Because these are open-pit grills, they are prone to rust if left in the elements.

  • Season the Grate: Like a cast iron pan, the iron grate should be kept oily. After every cook, wipe it down with a bit of vegetable oil while it’s still warm.
  • Cable Care: Regularly apply a food-safe lubricant to the lifting cables and the axle. This prevents binding and ensures the wheel turns with a satisfying, smooth “clink-clink-clink.”

The Santa Maria grill is a physical, engaging way to cook. It requires you to be at the pit, working the wheel, and watching the fire. But once you taste that first slice of oak-grilled beef, you’ll understand why this tradition has lasted for generations.